Ideal for a weekend trip from New Delhi or as a stop along a longer journey through India, the small town of Bundi offers all the charm of Rajasthan while remaining curiously little visited. Bundi Palace displays classic Rajasthani architecture, and the surrounding region is rich in nature.
The Rameshwar waterfalls offer a place to cool off.
At first glance, Bundi has nothing of an arid land about it. Located in south-eastern Rajasthan, this town of 88,000 inhabitants is nestled among hills covered in vegetation. Far from Jaisalmer's sandy landscapes, this peaceful city with its blue façades is reminiscent of Jodhpur. Its main lake, at the centre of which stands a tomb dedicated to Varuna, the god of water, in turn evokes the setting of Udaipur. Not part of the classic Rajasthan itineraries, Bundi remains little visited by tourists, giving it a certain authenticity. Guidebooks note that British writer Rudyard Kipling spent a few days here. Some claim he wrote The Jungle Book during his stay. Regardless of how long he stayed, the summer palace where he lodged, known as Sukh Mahal, remains a haven of peace amid lush greenery. Bundi owes its reputation above all to its school of painting, formed in the 17th century and specialising in miniatures and mural paintings. Sketches in hand, a young vendor named Munish explains the basics: “In Bundi, eyes are drawn like those of peacocks. And the nose is very long and very pointed.” The tradition is still very much alive. Even today, the town's walls are adorned with striking paintings of Rajput warriors, proudly mounted on their elephants and horses. Former capital of a princely state, Bundi was, until India's independence, under the control of a Rajput family, the Hadas, who ruled the region for nearly 800 years. “Today, the maharaja of Bundi lives in Delhi and has no interest in our town anymore,” says Munish, who laments the poor upkeep of the palace and the fort. However, when it comes to local legends, the young man's enthusiasm returns: “First there's the story of Hadi Rani. Too enamoured of his wife Hadi, the king demanded a keepsake from her before heading to the battlefield. She cut off her own head and had it sent to the king!” Munish immediately continues with the legend of Bhera, the headless knight. “A temple was even built on the spot where his head fell,” he adds gravely. One begins to wonder whether beheading isn't something of a local tradition... In Bundi, some havelis, those old mansions typical of Rajasthan, have been converted into restaurants. It is one of the town's charms that no two dishes ever taste quite the same from one place to the next. And how could one not mention Kukki? Everyone knows this man, who describes himself as a “self-taught archaeologist.” In his personal museum, he proudly displays a fine collection of carved stones, jewellery, terracotta utensils and coins from various eras. While Kukki's scholarship may at times raise a few doubts, the man himself is well worth the detour — just like the town of Bundi.
