The town of Abashiri lies on the coast of the Sea of Okhotsk, 350 km northeast of Sapporo on the island of Hokkaido.
The town is known for housing Japan's northernmost prison, as well as for the natural phenomenon of drift ice, which draws many visitors in winter.
During the Meiji era, the government took charge of developing and colonising Ezo (the former name of Hokkaido) to guard against the powerful Russia. At that time, however, the Sea of Okhotsk coast remained remote, and the central government paid it little attention.
Abashiri was then just a small fishing village with a harsh climate, almost inaccessible for much of the year because of the sea ice. To keep them as far as possible from the main centres, like convicts, the government had the idea of sending prisoners to Ezo to carry out forced labour.
Several prisons were built by the prisoners themselves, alongside the construction of the town of Abashiri; 1,200 inmates arrived in 1890. It was also they who, cutting their way through forest and mountain, built the road from Abashiri to Asahikawa, covering 230 km in eight months, working day and night.
Today Abashiri is a fishing town, known in particular for pink salmon and kinki rockfish, which are shipped throughout the country.
The dramatic natural surroundings draw visitors for whale and dolphin watching in summer, or drift ice in winter. At that time of year, Okhotsk Bay fills with large ice floes carried from Siberia's Amur River. It is a rare and striking sight, all the more so for being highly localised. Unlike hanami, which can be enjoyed throughout the archipelago, this requires a long journey to the very north of Japan. Every year from January to the end of March, the Aurora icebreaker tourist boat departs from Abashiri port for an outing unlike any other. In a good year with heavy ice, the jolting of the aptly-named icebreaker and the sight of an endless white sea will leave a lasting impression.
Wildlife enthusiasts will be well rewarded, with opportunities to photograph seals, numerous species of seabirds, and Steller's sea eagle. Occasionally, land animals such as foxes or Hokkaido deer venture close to the ice.
Between Shiretoko and Abashiri, a tourist train named the Ryuhyo Norokko runs from February to March. Along the route, be sure not to miss the stop at Kitahama station, where the view over the bay is superb, with an observation tower built for that purpose. At this small station, it is customary to leave a trace of one's visit by sticking a piece of paper, a ticket, or a photo to the walls.
The Abashiri Prison Museum occupies a former prison that operated from 1912 to 1981. When a new facility was built, local residents decided to preserve the old prison and convert it into a museum, to keep the memory of its history and that of the town. The wooden building follows the Ducpétiaux model (star-shaped), as used at Louvain prison in Belgium — very modern for its time. The exhibition presents testimonies from former inmates, giving an account of a very harsh life. After the visit, don't miss the restaurant's special menu, where you can “sample” an actual prisoner's meal (720 yen).
The Okhotsk people left their mark on Abashiri. The Moyoro Shell Mound Museum was created to reconstruct the life of the native people settled here in the 5th century.
Abashiri's speciality is, naturally, seafood. Try the Abashiri Zangi: Okhotsk pink salmon marinated then fried, served with local wasabi, often over a bowl of rice. Delicious and energising, ideal for facing the rigours of winter.
