The Paracas peninsula, one of the most arid places on the planet, battered by Pacific swells, is home to a national reserve of extraordinary richness.
The boat trip out to the Ballestas Islands gives a sense of the abundance of food beneath the ocean's surface. Hundreds of thousands of boobies, pelicans and Guanay cormorants have colonized this archipelago, turning the islets into white mountains of guano — the source of Peru's fortune in the nineteenth century. Beneath natural arches carved by erosion, nearly 2,000 South American sea lions bask in the sun.