Living testimonies of a society deeply marked by faith, the masked dance festivals in Bhutan are held once a year in all the country's major monasteries. Over several days, dances and rituals follow one another to the sound of trumpets, drums and cymbals, as gods and demons from Buddhist mythology come back to life — a dazzling display of colour and sound.
Found throughout the Himalayan countries, these festivals are called Choepa, Dromchoe, Drup or, most famously, Tsechu. They commemorate the great deeds of the Indian saint Guru Rimpoche, all of which took place on the tenth day of the lunar cycle. These are represented through various dances, recounting the master's life and exploits, performed by monks or laypeople. Several events take place during these festivals, such as the wang, collective blessings during which coloured cords are distributed. At major festivals such as the Paro Tsechu, an immense thangka is sometimes unfurled on the final day. Pilgrims are said to be freed from the cycle of rebirth by the mere sight of these thangkas, known as thongdroel.
To lighten the solemnity and tedium that the dances can sometimes generate, the atsara make repeated appearances between and during the performances. These jesters, representing the acaryas, the Indian religious masters, mock the monks and entertain the crowd with their antics and jokes — the only ones permitted an irreverent attitude towards religion. Over several days, villagers gather to watch, to be seen, and to earn religious merit by attending the dances. People bring their own picnics, joke around in good spirits, and alcohol always flows generously.