Japan, a volcanic land, is dotted with hot springs, often developed into an “onsen” (“温泉”). The term refers at once to the spring itself, the bathing pool created from it, and the thermal establishment built around that pool — sometimes even an entire community that has grown up around several hot springs. Since onsen water is believed to have therapeutic properties for both body and mind, the Japanese have been bathing in them for centuries, to the point that one can genuinely speak of a Japanese thermal bathing culture. Across the country, you will almost certainly come across a symbol showing a horizontal circle with three “S”-shaped lines rising from it, representing the bath and the steam escaping from the water.
A Japanese tradition, bathing in an onsen differs somewhat from Western-style pools. First, bathing is essentially static, allowing bathers to benefit fully from the water's curative properties. It takes place in a public space, usually outdoors, and often entirely naked, with men and women separated into fully partitioned areas. Some Japanese consider that nudity allows people to get to know one another while enjoying the relaxed atmosphere. As a result, it is customary to strike up conversation with your neighbours in the bath, the setting lending itself easily to quiet exchange. Regarded as an escape from the noise of daily life, bathing can equally take place in silence. Finally, as onsen are often set at the heart of nature, they also offer a contemplative setting in which to bathe surrounded by the natural world, even in winter.
The experience unfolds in several stages: a naked shower, “Kakeyu” (“かけ湯”), “Hanshin-Yoku” (“半身浴”), then “Zenshin-Yoku” (“全身浴”). Bathers stay in the water until the forehead breaks into a sweat and the heat begins to make the head spin, at which point they step out.
To honour the tradition of onsen bathing, follow the steps below:
- At the entrance, remove your shoes and leave them in the designated area. If you haven't already done so, pay the entrance fee and, if needed, buy or rent towels. It is recommended to have one large towel for drying off and one small towel to cover your genitals while moving around the bathing area;
- As most onsen are not mixed-sex, head to the changing room that matches you. Men's changing rooms are marked with the kanji “男” (often on a blue or purple background) and women's with the kanji “女” (often on a pink or red background). In the changing room, undress completely and take an empty locker or basket for all your belongings and clothes. Keep only your small towel with you;
- Then enter the shower area, equipped with buckets of water or showerheads and sometimes mirrors facing a stool. Sit down and wash your entire body thoroughly (with shampoo and soap if available), taking care to respect and not disturb your neighbours. Entering an onsen while dirty or with traces of soap on your body is considered unacceptable, so wash as thoroughly as you would at home. Clean your spot before leaving;
- Next comes the “Kakeyu”, which prepares your body for the onsen's temperature. Using a basin filled with hot water, pour it over your body in the following order: hands and feet -> legs and arms -> torso -> head. Rinse thoroughly and clean your spot;
- Finally, head to the bath keeping your small towel out of the water; set it on the edge or on your head (to avoid dizziness);
- When entering the water, start with “Hanshin-Yoku”, going in only up to the waist, to let your body adjust to the temperature;
- Then move on to “Zenshin-Yoku”, entering the bath up to your shoulders to fully enjoy the bath and its benefits, and sit down. Slowly move your legs and arms to aid blood circulation and rest. Never submerge your head;
- When your forehead starts sweating or your head begins to spin, it's time to leave the bath: step out of the water and briefly pat yourself dry with your small towel, then go to the changing room to dry off fully and get dressed. Do not rinse your body, so as to preserve the benefits of the thermal water;
- On your way out, drink something to rehydrate.
As each onsen has its own layout, do not hesitate to observe how locals go about it or to ask if you are ever unsure of the correct procedure.
