This year again, the Boteti River runs dry. Leaves crackle underfoot, birds fall silent in the heat. And yet the spectacle unfolds everywhere, from dawn to dusk. Herds of zebra and processions of elephants parade through the dry riverbed.
Under Kalahari skies, the secrets of an exceptional journey through southern Africa
Memories of Botswana, by Amandine, tailor-made travel specialist for Africa
Jackals and scavengers squabble over the remains of an abandoned carcass, and in the muddy pools, under the watchful eye of Nile monitors and fish eagles, large catfish cling fiercely to survival.
From the comfort of Moela Safari Lodge, from one of the private decks or the hide, the eye takes in this living, unfolding scene. Boarding a 4×4 almost feels unnecessary, the wildlife is so visible from these vantage points.
Further north lies the Savuti Channel and its puzzles, caught between periods of drought and sudden resurgence. Here, no water has flowed since 2009.
The eye is immediately drawn to the relief punctuating the savannah: giant baobabs, white sand dunes, and volcanic hills watched over by leopards.
Carried by its history and legends, this region holds a distinct emotional weight.
The track winds back through time
It follows old souls, those of Bushmen trackers who, centuries ago, etched wild animals onto the rock. Names still resonate here: Livingstone, Oswell, Selous… The spirit of the great explorers shaped these contours. And there, camped on the banks of the Savuti, a king in exile and his white wife once laid the foundations of an independent Botswana.
In this remote, sparsely built area, Savute Elephant Lodge, under the Belmond name, offers a remarkable interlude. The guides are storytellers, the table awakens the senses, and the songs rise in an almost dreamlike way. Luxury is in the details!
Botswana, safari in the Okavango © Etendues Sauvages – Amandine Desforges.
A short distance away, a different ecosystem. The king-size bed of the Linyanti River opens onto a 180-degree view of Namibia.
Its cracked ground trembles under the heavy tread of thousands of buffalo making their way toward water, ever scarcer. In these thirsty landscapes, the density of wildlife is striking: porcupines, owls, foxes, kudus, giraffes, hyenas, servals… Exhausted wildebeest and zebras become easy prey, and the lions of this realm stage spectacular hunts!
Feet in the sand, African Bush Camps’ Linyanti Expeditions proudly embraces its simplicity, with echoes of an earlier era. Storm lanterns glow, the shade sail ripples in the wind, the curiosity cabinet intrigues. A much-appreciated bonus: a Star-Bed extends from each canvas tent, for a full view of the night sky. In the early morning, the smell of bread toasting over an open flame drifts through the air… A wonderful authenticity.
And then, in the midst of October’s dryness, I find the Okavango Delta again, rich, powerful, miraculous. A true artery of life, this desert river spreads its rivers, channels, and waterways across an immense expanse of wilderness.
Heading to the NG32 concession in the southeast of the Delta. Over 100,000 hectares, and an absolutely superb safari area. Along the Gomoti River, the landscape fills with a thousand shades of green. Palm trees sway on the islets and the water drifts, calm and glistening. Just days ago, mokoros were still gliding by in silence. Today, hippos grunt, driving off massive roan antelopes. Further on, African wild dogs stir and yelp at the foot of a marula tree, thoroughly taunted by a female leopard savouring her kill high up in the branches.
Each day brings its own share of surprises, shared with the guests of the luxurious Gomoti Plains Camp.
Will dinner be served out in the bush tonight, under the stars?
© Etendues Sauvages – Amandine Desforges
