Victoria Falls

Dear friends,

Here I am, setting off to see Victoria Falls, which I had so often heard praised.

Poncho in hand, I make my way toward this powerful stretch of water. I step out of my comfort zone to take on a landscape as elegant as it is unpredictable. I let this force of nature draw me in with its charm and overwhelm me with its power. Watching its relentless course along the Zambezi River, the distance is long but the rhythm never lets up. Wildlife encounters are frequent here, and the river’s presence supports a diverse ecosystem. It is forceful, its movement sweeping, discreet at first and thunderous by the end. Like a dance, it draws in several partners — among them the blue vervet monkey, the trumpeter hornbill, and the warthog. Depending on the time of day, the sun dresses it in different colours, to the delight of anyone watching. The shifting light offers the observer a range of different views. It is a stripped-back experience, open-hearted, with nothing superficial about it.

All along the way, the suspense stays intense, and the ending is quite a fall. From the top of this sheer cliff, the roar of water against rock is deafening, staggering, vibrating through you. So many superlatives to describe this wonder. These turbulent falls regularly produce rainbows, giving onlookers the chance to cast a wish into the mist, much as we might throw a bottle into the sea.

I am stunned, and my own two eyes aren’t enough to take in the moment. My small camera feels modest against the scale of this queen. Its local name, Mosi-oa-Tunya — the smoke that thunders — speaks to the sovereignty of Mother Nature. Queen Victoria or queen of the waters, she will remain, in my heart, the greatest of all coronations.

I meet Aurélie, Travel Designer at Étendues Sauvages. Passionate about Africa, she tells me about her own journey to the falls and suggests we get closer still, by swimming in the intimidating Devil’s Pool. A complete immersion in this extraordinary setting. I am daunted by the idea, and struck by how emblematic this place is of nature at its most powerful. Aurélie’s look is reassuring, so I decide to accept, and off we go with Youssef, our guide. The water is cold, but given the heat outside, the chill is welcome. This adrenaline-filled moment, perched on the edge of the cliff, is dizzying. The pull of the current is nothing short of thrilling. Youssef now holds my life in his hands, bracing against the current while gripping me only by the ankles.

Having faced the devil of the Zambezi, Aurélie and I decide to continue across Africa together. We carry on our journey, hearts and minds full of emotions and memories.

Looking forward to telling you about this wonderful trip in person,

with love,

Estelle