Head for Isla Palenque, in southern Panama, on the Gulf of Chiriquí.
Or rather, set course for a sanctuary where primary rainforest spreads without end, all the way down to the Pacific.
The private “casitas” of Isla Palenque lodge are invisible from the beach, tucked away within the forest.
You could stay there for hours, days, weeks, lounging in a hammock overlooking the jungle. All it takes is closing your eyes, letting yourself be lulled by the familiar calls of howler monkeys, letting the extraordinary scent of salt air mixed with peat take over. Entirely secure, far from the noise of urban life, nestled at the heart of untouched nature. A few steps lead to the long beach. More often than not, it is deserted. Only the dolphins come to disturb you — they love to play with the rare humans passing through.
Panama is a far less visited destination than its immediate neighbour, Costa Rica.
The country, in fact, has no need of tourists to sustain itself. Its energy resources, its canal and its agriculture are substantial — and sufficient — sources of revenue for domestic needs. So when travellers arrive to discover Panama, they are welcomed as distinguished guests rather than “customers”. Everything is done to look after them, with genuine authenticity. This is even more true on Isla Palenque.
Isla Palenque, Panama © Isla Palenque
It takes about thirty minutes to reach the island, aboard a small wooden boat. Crossing the Gulf of Chiriquí is already a striking experience, with its dozens of islands — most of them uninhabited — all covered in forest that seems to plunge straight into the sea. The shore is not far off, yet it already feels like the end of the world. “You land on Isla Palenque near a long wooden pier, and it’s an immediate shock. You’re swept up, right at the heart of the primary rainforest, with howler monkeys as the soundtrack,” recalls Fabrice.
He and his wife had decided to spend their honeymoon in Panama, letting themselves be persuaded to end the trip on Isla Palenque. A fitting climax, according to the newlyweds, who still remember their first impressions upon entering the jungle. They retain, intact, the sense of life bursting forth, denser than ever within the impenetrable forest. The volume is remarkably high, with concerts of exotic birds performing fortissimo. Unseen, they come together to play a welcome tune.
Luxury cannot be luxury if it becomes too ostentatious. The maxim holds true down to the smallest detail on Isla Palenque. The eight “casitas” facing the beach are completely hidden from view. Even a drone would struggle to spot them. They blend into the jungle while ensuring maximum comfort for passing guests. Their furniture, understated and refined, is crafted from local materials by Panama’s finest artisans.
Isla Palenque, Panama © Isla Palenque
The meals, prepared by a renowned chef, are nothing short of delicate and refined. Fruits and vegetables all come from the lodge’s organic farm, the fish is caught daily. Isla Palenque is generous, providing everything needed for the fortunate Robinson Crusoes stranded at the heart of the primary rainforest.
Sometimes, these modern-day Robinsons leave their green shelter to venture onto the beach. One of the best times to do so may well be at dusk, when the sky turns from pink to black, playing against the grey of the sand. Or perhaps early in the morning, when iguanas emerge from hiding or dolphins surf the waves, curious to observe the humans.
